A few months ago I got a call from Mike Hale, a local icon of
determination and accomplishment, urging me to attend the next meeting
of the Washington Brewers Guild. He didn't say so, of course, but my
own critical inner voice chided me for not yet having thrown my lot in
with the latest incarnation of the Guild, and I said I'd be there. I
found a group comprised mainly, encouragingly, of relative newcomers to
the scene here in Washington, and for once they seemed ready to get
things done.
We've taken a run at this guild thing a few times up here, and each
time the effort has collapsed under its own weight. The first time out,
as I recall, the biggest local microbrewer pretty much demanded to
control the organization and its agenda, based on a silly system of dues
tied to production. Who can blame them, really? The next go-round
failed as well, since by then there was another large-ish challenger
willing to vie for stature and, once again, control. Then there was the
hush-hush shadow organization that engendered a flat dues system and
wouldn't admit either of these earlier-sullied micro-giants. There
wasn't actually a charter prohibition against mentioning their names,
but there might as well have been. Each time, gradually, we all peeled
away, claiming something or other pressing, frustrated at the bickering
and lack of commitment that ensued (or didn't) each time we all sat down
over beers and nachos.
There are a lot of other reasons why we've never quite been able to get
it together in Washington, Guild-wise. One of them is personalities, or
what I prefer to call the clash of the curmudgeons. Another is the size
of the shadow cast by the enormously successful Guild in Oregon, the
state immediately to the south of us. The Oregon Brewers Guild has
become an exemplar of industry advocacy and furtherance whose annual
crowning achievement, the Oregon Brewers Festival, leaves many of the
rest of us impotently in awe when we begin talking about doing
anything. And there are a number of reasons why the Oregonians have
done so well with their confederation-xenophobia and Fred Eckhardt among
them—but it truly has little to do with what we're faced with up here
north of the Columbia.
I found the shortness of memory and relative lack of awareness of this
whole historical snarl refreshing as I helped myself to carrot sticks
and onion rings at that first meeting I attended. New guys were in
charge, who were blissfully unaware of all the vituperation and
finger-pointing that had dominated earlier tries at organization. We
talked about-what else?-putting on a festival to raise money and get the
word out, and for once it was practical. The plan wasn't grand, and it
wasn't perfect, but it stood a good chance of actually happening. We
talked about some very scary potential legislation then galloping around
the Washington houses of congress, which would have criminalized a
driving blood alcohol level of .02 percent-one beer. And we talked
about how to get more breweries to participate. Somewhat chastened by
the fact that I hadn't been to earlier meetings I offered to make a few
calls.
What has surprised me since is the reluctance on the parts of many of
my colleagues to join up. Naturally I have some personal theories. One
is that some of the people who a few years back didn't dare take time
out from the runoff or filling kegs to regularly come to meetings are
now trapped behind their desks, hemmed in by banks of phones and stacks
of papers. Another is that a lot of people are afraid of organization
in general, and that by constituting only one voice in a roomful of them
absolute power will somehow be compromised. I was unenthusiatically
urged by a sales guy for one non-attender that I should invite the
generally skeptical company president to lunch and pitch him the idea of
joining. Well, it isn't my personal organization, and I'm not trying to
sell him insurance. The good sense, it seems to me, of being a part of
a group that for once is set up to do us all a lot of good should be
enough to sell itself.
We now have over fifty breweries in Washington.
We've undoubtedly all got a lot of value to say to each other. No one
person, or company, I'm fairly sure, has figured it all out to the
extent that they can't learn something from someone else.
Most states have brewers' guilds, I'm happy to say, and while I can't
speak with any certainty on what exactly they talk about or how
effective they are, I think it's encouraging that the perception of
common goals has at least brought them all into existence. For we truly
all have to hang together, to concentrate on what unites us rather than
what shade of difference makes it absolutely impossible to sit at the
same table and discuss things.
It's perhaps a bit grand to compare our collective quest to those colonial bits of serpent sausage which decided to unite in revolution, but if we don't at least recognize what we've accomplished and agree to protect it against incursions of perfidious industry and cultural philistinism we will probably eventually lose it.
Participate in your state's brewers guild, or start one. If nothing else it's a good excuse to check out new pubs and breweries, the way we all used to.